Showing posts with label Historic Foods. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Historic Foods. Show all posts

Thursday, 7 August 2014

THE QUINTESSENTIAL ENGLISH AFTERNOON TEA IN THE SUNSHINE

Image Credit: Benson Kua


Sadie Hirst is an award winning artisan baker and member of the prestigious British Society of Baking. Sadie is passionate about preserving our English Baking heritage and local Lincolnshire recipes. This week she is offering up an old favourite for an afternoon tea; summer scones.


As we have been enjoying such a wonderful spell of good weather, I thought we might partake in a spot of dainty refinement this month with my recipe for making traditional scones.

The quintessential English ritual that is Afternoon Tea is thought to have been invented by Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford in the early 1800’s. She was inclined to get a bit peckish mid to late afternoon, she described it as “having that sinking feeling”. When it got to around 3pm she just couldn’t wait until the customary 8 or 9pm for Dinner, so got into the habit of ordering tea, bread, butter and cakes to be served in her room. This was seen to be a splendid idea and it soon caught on, very soon it was deemed respectable enough for all fashionable society to indulge in Afternoon Tea.

This evolved into the “At Home”, which if you were the hostess involved receiving invited guests at your home and serving them with tea, cakes and sandwiches. Sometimes there would be entertainment, but mainly it was an opportunity to gossip. It was seen as the height of bad manners if you were invited and didn’t turn up. In etiquette ridden Victorian England the potential social pitfalls and need to try and outdo one another must have been a minefield to navigate. With this being a new social arena, the rules of engagement must have been very confusing, even the name wasn’t simple. The upper classes would have served a “Low” or “Afternoon tea” at around 3 to 4 pm just before it was fashionable to promenade in Hyde Park. The middle or lower classes would have eaten a more robust “High tea” at around 5pm in place of a late dinner. The names derive from how high your table was that you ate from – high tea being served at a proper dinner table.

A traditional afternoon tea consists of a selection of small finger size sandwiches to start, such as smoked salmon with lemon and black pepper, egg and cress and thinly sliced cucumber with cream cheese, all crusts removed please!

The second course is where your scones come in; scones are at their best freshly eaten on the day they are made, as they don’t keep very well. If serving with cream and jam you will need to let them cool down sufficiently in order for everything not to melt in a runny mess.

The final course would be a selection of gorgeous cakes .If you are going all out for the Victorian Afternoon Tea then a Victoria Sandwich is the way to go and if made well takes some beating. I’m a bit of a purest when it comes to a Victoria Sandwich, just a top quality homemade jam in the centre and a sprinkle of caster sugar on top; a good one doesn’t need anything else really.

In keeping with the Victorian theme you could perhaps go for having your own tea party next Wednesday 6th August to celebrate the Birthday of Lincolnshire’s world famous Poet Laureate, Alfred, Lord Tennyson.

He was born in the Rectory at Somersby on the Wolds in 1809 .Two of his most famous poems “The Miller’s Daughter” and “The Brook” are said to be connected to Stockwith Water Mill, which is a 17th Century Water Mill situated near Hagworthingham. The Millers Daughter is of special significance as it was this poem that first brought Tennyson to the attention of Queen Victoria, who later made him Poet Laureate after Wordsworth died. The Brook was inspired by the stream that starts in Holywell Wood on a hill above Somersby and meanders its way down past the Mill. He was so captivated by the sight and the sound of it that “The Brook” is forever immortalised in his poem.

I think it is remarkable that this man who grew up in a little rural hamlet in the Wolds went on to be the most notable poet of the Victorian era. There is actually a Tennyson Trail you can follow around the Wolds that takes in lots of local places of interest that are connected to him and his poetry. Local tourist information centres can give you information about it or search on the internet. www.lincstothepast.com is a really interesting website. We are so fortunate to have a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in our county. I think that living here we sometimes just need reminding of what’s on our doorstep.

Sadie’s Summer Scones

Equipment – You will need a baking tray lined with baking parchment, a large mixing bowl, a broad bladed knife, 2 inch metal cutter, a pastry brush, measuring spoons, measuring jug, fork, rolling pin, scales, oven preheated to 220c

Ingredients

I use Bicarbonate of Soda and Cream of Tartar, rather than baking powder or self-raising flour, it gives a much better rise, but you must make sure that these are fresh for the best results.
  • 8oz/225g Plain Flour
  • 1tsp Bicarbonate of Soda
  • 2 tsp Cream of Tartar
  • 1 ½ oz /40g Block Stork Margarine (cut into small cubes)
  • 1 oz/ 25g Caster Sugar
  • Pinch salt
  • ¼ pint/150ml buttermilk (you may need more depending on your flour)
  • Extra buttermilk for glazing
Method
  1. Put the lined tray into the oven to heat up as your oven is preheating
  2. Sieve together the flour, bicarb and cream of tartar
  3. Rub in the margarine until mixture resembles breadcrumbs
  4. Stir in the sugar, salt and buttermilk
  5. Work together with the broad bladed knife until the mixture is soft but not overly sticky. If you need to add a little bit more buttermilk do so, but only a little bit at a time.
  6. When you are happy with your dough, sprinkle your hands with some flour and your work top and put the dough there, very lightly knead it to bring it together and make it smooth. Do not overwork the dough, it is the exact opposite of bread, handle it as little as possible.
  7. Roll out to ¾ inch thick, don’t be tempted to do them any shallower as you won’t get a good rise.
  8. I use a 2” metal cutter, try not to twist the cutter as you cut them out as that distorts how they rise.
  9. Glaze carefully with your left over buttermilk, try not to get it down the sides as again it stops them rising so well.
  10. Take out your preheated tray, pop your scones on, I put mine on quite close together. Put straight in the oven just above the centre tray. Bake for 7 to ten minutes, cool on a wire rack.
  11. When cool enough, spread with jam and top with whipped cream, or the other way around, I’m not getting into that debate! Serve as part of a Summer Afternoon tea or on their own with a lovely pot of Ceylon.

Tuesday, 29 July 2014

HISTORIC FOOD: 1940’S FESTIVAL IN WOODHALL SPA

Sadie and her father on the Saturday Morning
Sadie Hirst is an award winning artisan baker with a passion for our local baking heritage. She is a regular Select Blog contributor and this week has focused on a recipe from the 1940's after the 1940's weekend in Woodhall Spa. 

Last weekend the whole village of Woodhall Spa went back in time to the 1940’s. Now in its third year, it promised to be the best year yet.

What really made it so special was the participation of not just the people involved with the event but the visitors that enter into the spirit of it by dressing up. This has of course been helped enormously by the huge enthusiasm for all things vintage and yearning for nostalgia. The village has a long history with the military and Woodhall Spa provides a perfect setting and an authentic environment for the whole event.

It brings together the local business community too, we had great fun decorating our shop and I had been squirrelling 1940’s cookery books, posters and props away all year. I love the vintage scene and we have a thriving one in this area and of course this festival gives me the perfect opportunity to recreate some 1940’s recipes. It was hard to choose which one to put in for you as many were dishes of rationing necessity rather than being particularly appealing. I also didn’t think you would want to tackle anything with dried egg in, although it was a clever achievement in food technology it was particularly unpalatable.

Rationing in the Second World War was run by the Ministry of Food under the biochemist Sir Jack Drummond and the Minister, Lord Woolton. They applied the latest theories in nutrition to improve the nation’s diet. It was a feat of organisation and it was imperative that rationing was simplified and used for goods whose supply could be guaranteed. Another key element was the Dig for Victory campaign, which promoted an increase in agricultural production. Self sufficiency and home grown produce was hugely important. During 1943 and 1944 imports were less than half of that before the war and there was the ongoing threat of merchant ships being sunk by German submarines, in fact around 2,500 were lost during the war.

Sadie's Son and Father
An unappetizing loaf was produced called “The National Loaf” it was made with special flour. Due to a shortage of imported wheat a new method of production was developed which extracted more flour from the wheat grain. Although it was nutritious it was apparently grey in colour and not at all popular.

The Ministry of Food were also responsible for teaching and educating people on how to make the most of their rations and the healthiest way to feed their families. The Ministry of Food leaflets are now very collectable and the style is very indicative of the period.

The recipe I have chosen is –

Steamed Pudding and Jam

Equipment

Mixing Bowl, Sieve, Spoon, Pudding Basin (size is up to you), Measuring Jub, Tablespoon, greaseproof paper, foil, string, scissors, saucepan or roasting tin, something to grease you bowl with, scales.

Ingredients
  • 6oz Self Raising Flour
  • Pinch Salt
  • 1 1/2 oz Margarine (Stork in a tub)
  • 1 ½ oz Sugar
  • Just over ¼ pint of milk and water mixed together
  • 2 TBSP Jam
Method
  1. Mix and Sieve together the flour and Salt
  2. Rub in the Margarine
  3. Mix in the Sugar
  4. Mix to a dropping consistency with the milk and water
  5. Grease your pudding basin
  6. Put a greased disc of greaseproof paper in the bottom of your bowl (it will make it easier to turn out)
  7. Put the jam at the bottom of your bowl on top of your greaseproof paper
  8. Put the pudding mixture on top, leave a good inch at the top of the bowl so there is room for your pudding to rise. Depending on the size of your bowl you may have enough to do two smaller puds.
  9. Put a cover of greaseproof paper and then a layer of foil over the top, but put a pleat in so there is room for a bit of expansion as your pudding will rise up like a cake. Tie your paper and foil around the rim of the bowl.
  10. Pop it in a saucepan with water coming at least half way up, make sure that the water isn’t so high as it can leak into your pudding and ruin it. Put the lid on your saucepan.
  11. Keep it on a gentle simmer and make sure it doesn’t boil dry, you may need to top the water up every now and again. You need to steam it for about 1 ½ to 2 hours. If you prefer you could do this in the oven, just put your bowl in a baking tin and pour water around to make a Bain Marie and steam it in the oven on a low heat, again keep an eye on the water. This is how it would have been done in the 40’s and you would have added a bit of salt and cooked your veg in the water around your pudding.
  12. When it is done, turn out carefully onto a plate and serve with custard. 
Do you have a historic food recipe? Know any interesting historical foodie facts? Let us know and we'll publish it here! Email Loryn Good at loryn.good@lincs-chamber.co.uk

Monday, 23 June 2014

HISTORIC FOODS - CHOCOLATE PUFFS


This week's Historic Food comes from long time Select Lincolnshire for Food contributor, Sadie Hirst with a fascinating sweet treat.

Apart from the Mid-Summer Solstice, of which there doesn’t appear to be any special foods attached, there is a bit of a lull in traditional festivals. So I thought we would have a bit of a change on the recipe front this month. As you may know I love reading old cookery books and am interested in our baking history.

One of my favourite old cookery books is by Elizabeth Raffald, it is called the “Experienced English Housekeeper”, which was first published in 1769.

She was born as Elizabeth Whittaker in Doncaster in 1733 and was one of five daughters. All of the girls enjoyed a privileged upbringing in that they were taught to read and write by their Father – John Whittaker, who was a school teacher. This undoubtedly gave Elizabeth an enormous advantage in her remarkable career and with her writing later in life.

In 1748 aged just fifteen years old, Elizabeth worked for several families in Yorkshire and Lincolnshire before settling down to be the housekeeper for the Warburton’s of Arley Hall in Cheshire. It was here that she met her future husband John Raffald, he was the Warburton’s head gardener.

In 1763 they moved to Manchester, where John’s family were from. Elizabeth at some point trained as a Confectioner, so she put this to good use and started her business path by opening one confectioners shop and subsequently a second shop. Confectioners had a different meaning then, it refers to all things sweet such as cakes and pastries. The shop would probably have been more like a Deli, selling cooked meats, soups as well as bread and bakery products. Not just sweets and chocolate as we think of confectionary now.

Her Husband John sold flowers and seeds from a market stall and also ran a vegetable stall with other members of his family.

From the shop address Elizabeth ran the first employment agency for servants catering for the Manchester area. Ever the entrepreneur, in addition to the two shops and agency, in 1768 Elizabeth starts to advertise in the Manchester Mecury “Plumb Cakes for Weddings”. This was a year before she had her book published. In her book it would be the first time we would see a Wedding Cake as we would recognise it now. It shows the recipe for Bride Cake, covered in Marzipan and Icing. This combination had never been printed before.

It really is quite staggering what this woman achieved, an amazing business woman at a time when it was unheard of. Not only did she have a multi-faceted career, she had according to some reports sixteen daughters in eighteen years, but sadly only three survived.

In 1769 her book is published and another example of Elizabeth’s business acumen is that she understood that publishing piracy was rife, especially in cookery books. To avoid this she sold the book by advance subscription, to ensure that she benefitted financially. All 800 copies were sold this way on the first print run. She personally signed all copies in the first print run and the second run of 400. The book sold for five shillings each and the main selling point was that all the recipes were her original ones and hadn’t been in print before.

The book went on to further print runs and eventually it did end up being pirated, with 13 Authorised editions and 22 pirated ones. It was adapted for the American market in 1801.In 1773 she sold the publishing rights to the printers R. Baldwin of London for £1400, equivalent to £151,000 in today’s money.

The book was a huge success and she dedicated it to Lady Warburton who she stayed in touch with
throughout her career. Elizabeth’s book was a favourite of Queen Victoria’s with passages of it copied into the Queens diary. This is interesting as it would have been an old cookery book by the time of Victoria’s reign. The Experienced English Housekeeper was published nearly a hundred years before the iconic Victorian book “ Beeton’s Book of Household Management”, which was first published in 1861.

After the book was published she had “many fingers in many pies” – she ran a couple of pubs in Manchester, set up a Post Office, in 1771 helped set up Salford’s first newspaper “Prescott’s Journal”, part owned the Newspaper Harrop’s Mercury, catered for a race course as well as her continuing Bridal cake business. She also co-wrote a book on Midwifery with one of the founders of Manchester Royal Infirmary, however this was found in manuscript form and it is unknown whether it was actually printed.

Some of her ventures made money and some lost a considerable amount. It is unfortunate that her Husband was a notorious alcoholic and they were often in debt because of his vices. At that time women had no legal rights, so all of the businesses were in his name.

On Thursday 19 April 1781 Elizabeth came down with spasms and died within the hour. She was buried at Stockport Parish Church.

I think she was an incredible person and it is a shame that she is largely forgotten, whilst the later Isabella Beeton gets a much larger share of the limelight.

Following is one of Elizabeth’s recipes. As with all books of this era the instructions are almost non-existent. I have tweaked it a bit, as the ingredients we have these days are slightly different. This would have required a lot of hard work to make this recipe in Elizabeth’s day, but now we can whizz this up in a matter of minutes with our electric whisks and reliable ovens.

Elizabeth Raffald’s Chocolate Puffs

Preheat your oven to 150c

You will need two baking trays lined, a bowl, a sieve, an electric whisk, 2 little bowls to separate your eggs, two tablespoons.

Ingredients
8oz Icing Sugar
1oz Cocoa Powder
2 Egg Whites 

Method
  1. Weigh and Double Sieve your Icing Sugar and Cocoa Powder
  2. Whisk your egg whites until really frothy, I used the whisk attachment on a freestanding mixer
  3. Sieve again your sugar and cocoa mixture onto your egg whites. 
  4. Mix together again with the mixer, but I changed to a beater attachment, rather than a whisk.
  5. It should be nice and glossy but stiff enough to hold its shape.
  6. Put walnut size “blobs” on your baking sheet, leave a bit of room as they will puff up. 
  7. Bake at 150c fan for 30mins or until they are cooked. They should be nice and smooth on the top and still a bit gooey in the middle.
  8. To me they are bit of a cross between a meringue and a macaron. They are much cheaper and quicker to make that French Macarons though and a lot less expensive as they don’t include ground almonds.
  9. These little chocolate puffs are nice on their own with a coffee, or you could split them when they are cold and fill with whipped double cream like you would a meringue.
I think it is a great way of preserving our Baking Heritage by continuing to make these recipes now, I love that people have been enjoying making and eating this recipe for over two hundred years. TV shows quite often focus on recipes that use ingredients that we would find very odd, even repulsive. Sometimes there is often an element of freak show about the dishes that are shown. The reality is that most of the recipes were good, tasty and wholesome every day food that we have enjoyed for centuries.

Tuesday, 13 May 2014

HISTORIC FOODS: NUMBLE OR UMBLE PIE?

Flickr: Tim Parkinson 

In the first of our Historic foods feature, we take a look at the age old argument; Numble or Umble pie? This issue caused quite a debate here at the Select Lincolnshire office, so an investigation was called, and here are the findings...

Umbles are the meaty parts of a beast's pluck; the heart, liver, kidneys and lungs, usually of a deer but also of other animals.

It is not at all clear whether the phrase "to eat humble pie" which as we know means "to be very submissive" is connected, other than in the sound of the words, to Umble Pie. There is some speculation that Umbles were a lower-class food, so anyone who ate a pie of them was a humble and inferior person. This also could hold true today, as we hold offal in disdain and sell it off cheap, but kidneys, tripe and the rest were sometimes thought to be amongst the best bits. Contradictory, huh?

"Umble" appears to come, via Norman French, from the Latin "lumb" meaning "loins", whereas "humble" comes from "humilem" meaning "lowly".

What conclusions do you draw from this?

We want to hear from you! Do you have any historic food stories for us? Maybe an old Lincolnshire recipe, or an old war food legend. Contact Loryn Good with your historic food facts! Email loryn.good@lincs-chamber.co.uk